Is Brunello an "invention" ? Sure. But so are many many appellations in Italy and across the world. Napa? Bolgheri? Franciacorta? Champagne and even Bordeaux?
Humans are part of terroir.
Does Brunello warrant its own appellation? Absolutely because of the particular clime in the warm/dry part of southern Tuscany. The wines are riper and bigger than in Chianti Classico.
About 20 years ago, an Italian colleague told me "Italians don't drink Brunello-- that's for Americans." I think that may have been on the count of the big pleasing style that wowed American critics in the 00's.
Nowadays Brunello faces a bigger crisis with climate change. And as the Brunello president Giacomo Bartolommei of Caprili told me:“Brunello is still a wine for people who are over 50. We are not seeing people under 50 much interested in it. This is the challenge.”
So the consortium, is moving to promote Rosso di Montalcino, which I think is a good thing. The wines tend to be fresher and easier and less "Big Brunello". This is a good thing. The problem with we boomers even is that our livers and all the rest aren't getting younger.
A fun discussion, though it boils down to a simple premise: Your colleague on that weary bus ride after a long day simply isn't thrilled by Brunello. If the Biondi-Santis doubled down on a particular selection of Sangiovese and created a higher-end wine than Chianti, why is that not legitimate? And if Brunello got its paperwork in first to achieve DOCG status before Barolo, who cares? (The first American Viticultural Area, after all, was not Napa, but Augusta, Missouri.) She can make the argument that Brunello is straight-laced compared to Barolo's more free-wheeling, earthy vibe (the Bordeaux-Burgundy contrast). But as you note, Brunello is successful and loved by many. No wine will ever be for everyone. So as for your colleague -- well, there's more Brunello for the rest of us!
Hah I agree. Thanks for your note! I always love these discussions because there are so many opinions in the wine industry. This particular colleague lives in Florence, so not a stranger to Sangiovese. It was a surprising conversation, but I’d like to have more like them.
And I’ve always loved the Missouri connection to the AVA story. Recently, I posted about how Florida can actually boast the oldest wine region in “America” dating back to the late 16th century with French Huguenots (followed closely by Spanish) near Jacksonville. Farming Muscadine, of course, but actually big(ish) business in FL.
Really interesting piece! We blinded Italian reds a few weeks ago (Barolo, Barbaresco, brunello, amarone, Chianti Classico were all options), and we ended up having several Brunellos. I couldn’t believe how different they all were. And it was much harder than I could have predicted to tell them apart (blind) from the Nebbiolo options. We called them wrong all night! But it was fun, as always, and we’ll have to do it again, of course.
Seniority of an appellation is not always a guarantee of its quality or financial viability. Here in Spain the 3 first DOs were Rioja, Jerez (sherry) and..... Ribeiro! No one would argue about Rioja's right to be there nor Sherry's even if it is horribly out of fashion now. But Ribeiro? I bet that in the unlikely event that you've heard of it, could you say where it is or what it's made from?
Brunello succeeds even if it is a 19th century affectation because in the years following, the growers have worked consistently towards a cohesive product and identity. Not many appellations, even ones claiming centuries of history, can say that. Don't forget that "terroir" doesn't just refer to soil, aspect, drainage, climate, microclimate and the variety's interaction with them but also man's input.
Grapes wander. Sometimes by accident, often on purpose. Wine is grown in the vineyard but made in the maker's mind. Humans impose stylistic decisions driven by myriad factors. They might take the long route (massal selection) or the short (imported wood) or a mix, but it should surprise no one when a group succeeds, through focused effort, to create deliciousness using old things in new places. More Brunello for the rest of us.
Is Brunello an "invention" ? Sure. But so are many many appellations in Italy and across the world. Napa? Bolgheri? Franciacorta? Champagne and even Bordeaux?
Humans are part of terroir.
Does Brunello warrant its own appellation? Absolutely because of the particular clime in the warm/dry part of southern Tuscany. The wines are riper and bigger than in Chianti Classico.
About 20 years ago, an Italian colleague told me "Italians don't drink Brunello-- that's for Americans." I think that may have been on the count of the big pleasing style that wowed American critics in the 00's.
Nowadays Brunello faces a bigger crisis with climate change. And as the Brunello president Giacomo Bartolommei of Caprili told me:“Brunello is still a wine for people who are over 50. We are not seeing people under 50 much interested in it. This is the challenge.”
So the consortium, is moving to promote Rosso di Montalcino, which I think is a good thing. The wines tend to be fresher and easier and less "Big Brunello". This is a good thing. The problem with we boomers even is that our livers and all the rest aren't getting younger.
A fun discussion, though it boils down to a simple premise: Your colleague on that weary bus ride after a long day simply isn't thrilled by Brunello. If the Biondi-Santis doubled down on a particular selection of Sangiovese and created a higher-end wine than Chianti, why is that not legitimate? And if Brunello got its paperwork in first to achieve DOCG status before Barolo, who cares? (The first American Viticultural Area, after all, was not Napa, but Augusta, Missouri.) She can make the argument that Brunello is straight-laced compared to Barolo's more free-wheeling, earthy vibe (the Bordeaux-Burgundy contrast). But as you note, Brunello is successful and loved by many. No wine will ever be for everyone. So as for your colleague -- well, there's more Brunello for the rest of us!
Hah I agree. Thanks for your note! I always love these discussions because there are so many opinions in the wine industry. This particular colleague lives in Florence, so not a stranger to Sangiovese. It was a surprising conversation, but I’d like to have more like them.
And I’ve always loved the Missouri connection to the AVA story. Recently, I posted about how Florida can actually boast the oldest wine region in “America” dating back to the late 16th century with French Huguenots (followed closely by Spanish) near Jacksonville. Farming Muscadine, of course, but actually big(ish) business in FL.
Aha! "Lives in Florence" explains a lot. 😍
Really interesting piece! We blinded Italian reds a few weeks ago (Barolo, Barbaresco, brunello, amarone, Chianti Classico were all options), and we ended up having several Brunellos. I couldn’t believe how different they all were. And it was much harder than I could have predicted to tell them apart (blind) from the Nebbiolo options. We called them wrong all night! But it was fun, as always, and we’ll have to do it again, of course.
Seniority of an appellation is not always a guarantee of its quality or financial viability. Here in Spain the 3 first DOs were Rioja, Jerez (sherry) and..... Ribeiro! No one would argue about Rioja's right to be there nor Sherry's even if it is horribly out of fashion now. But Ribeiro? I bet that in the unlikely event that you've heard of it, could you say where it is or what it's made from?
Brunello succeeds even if it is a 19th century affectation because in the years following, the growers have worked consistently towards a cohesive product and identity. Not many appellations, even ones claiming centuries of history, can say that. Don't forget that "terroir" doesn't just refer to soil, aspect, drainage, climate, microclimate and the variety's interaction with them but also man's input.
Grapes wander. Sometimes by accident, often on purpose. Wine is grown in the vineyard but made in the maker's mind. Humans impose stylistic decisions driven by myriad factors. They might take the long route (massal selection) or the short (imported wood) or a mix, but it should surprise no one when a group succeeds, through focused effort, to create deliciousness using old things in new places. More Brunello for the rest of us.